I donít do this for a living Ė in order to pay the bills Iíd have to charge the
sort of prices youíd pay a master bowyer for a good journeyman bow.
I have a full time job (sometimes a bit more than full time) as an IT
consultant. Making bows and arrows is how I relax. That means I can spend the
time to do a good job, but it also means there is a lead time if you want to
one. I try to give a realistic ETA, which will depend on the work in hand and
how much real life sometimes intrudes into woodworking time. What I always do
is make sure you are updated with progress, in pictures, whenever there is a
bit of visible progress. And I donít ask for any financial commitment from you
until you can see the bow. That takes some of the pressure off both of us.
In general terms my philosophy is very much aligned with the SPTA. I'm a recent
member and I'll be getting more involved as and when time permits.
I try to be Ďtraditionalí and make bows as they have been made for centuries. I
donít use plastic, fibreglass or carbon fibre. This is where, and in some cases
why, I deviate from tradition :
Other than that the techniques are, as far as I know, authentic. So are some of
the tools. My small plane, drawknife and spoke shave are anything up to 100
years old and although I donít use them exclusively, they are my favourites
especially the small plane (bought at a car boot sale for 4.50GBP).
I use foreign wood (this is not so untraditional as bowstaves were imported
from Italy, in fact they were used as a sort of levy on wool imports). Nowadays
European Yew is just to rare and the ash I have seen is over-dried and just not
dense enough. The last time I visited the sawmills I found a few pieces of
native yew a couple of feet long and very shaky and knotty.
I resort to a circular saw to cut the staves from the plank. I could hand saw
them but it would add a day to each bow and taking out thin laminations of
woods like hickory would be a long process. Other than that I keep the use of
power tools to a minimum. Iím considering investing in a band saw for some of
the gross shaping. Iíd use it where I kerf and chisel the risers at the moment.
I use modern water soluble epoxy glues for laminating and joining wood. Animal
glues can be a problem in hot or wet condtions and they are not good at filling
space. The also take a long time to develop full strength.
I use spirit glues for fletching (although Iím thinking of using animal glue
for this if I can find a good source. Thereís no reason why it shouldnít work
just as well, it has good affinity with both the wood and quills.) The deciding
factor will be the intial tack time and the strength of the set glue.
I use modern materials (Dacron and nylon) for strings and make them in endless
loop. One day I will take the time to learn Flemish twist but I doubt Iíll use
linen thread unless Iím asked for it specifically.